Banteay Chhmar protects thousands of square meters of historical carvings, like this scene showing traitors executed during a rebellion.

Banteay Chhmar, Cambodia — The remote Khmer temple of Banteay Chhmar is one of the most intriguing ancient shrines in Cambodia because much of the site remains hidden, 800 years after it was built. This includes thousands of square feet of detailed bas-relief carvings that remains buried, unseen since the stone walls collapses centuries ago.

The Cambodian government is working to have Banteay Chhmar listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site, like the Angkor Heritage Park and the Khmer temple of Preah Vihear. Three partners supporting the efforts of the government and local authorities are the Global Heritage Fund (GHF), Community Based Tourism (CBT) and Heritage Watch International.

Andrew Marino, an educator with extensive Asian experience, is now working for Heritage Watch International teaching English to CBT workers at the site. He also maintains the Visit Banteay Chhmar website and posted these two videos produced by Agir Pour le Cambodge and Global Heritage Fund respectively. The films give viewers worldwide a chance to experience this unique and remote temple, as well as understanding more about the restoration and community development efforts underway.

Banteay Chhmar Community Based Tourism

The legendary history of Banteay Chhmar and a look at how the local community-based tourism (CBT) group is beginning to offer temple tours, homestays and educational activities including traditional music, silk weaving, bird watching etc. Originally supported by Agir Pour le Cambodge (APLC) the CBT is now supported by Global Heritage Fund (GHF) which is conserving the temple.

Global Heritage Fund at Banteay Chhmar

An overview of the Global Heritage Fund’s (GHF) conservation project of the Banteay Chhmar Temple in Banteay Chhmar, Cambodia. The 12th century Angkorian temple bears startling bas-reliefs of Angkorian-era life and Bayon-style face towers similar to those found at Bayon Temple, near Angkor Wat.

RELATED Banteay Chhmar LINKS

Banteay Chhmar 1937 – George Groslier’s 1937 account of this ancient Khmer City

Banteay Chhmar – Working to Save Another Angkor Wat

Global Heritage Fund

Heritage Watch International

3D Architectural reconstruction of Banteay Chhmar by Dr. Pheakday Nguonphan.

Article by Kent Davis – Devata.org

PARIS, FRANCE – The majestic temple of Angkor Wat is an icon of the medieval Khmer civilization that once flourished in Southeast Asia. But situated 110 kilometers northwest of the well-known Angkor group, experts believe another fabulous monument also holds vital clues to the mysteries of the Khmer Empire. At the behest of the Global Heritage Fund, experts recently gathered at the Guimet Museum to insure the future of the temple of Banteay Chhmar.

One of eight Lokesvara images originally carved on the temple walls of Banteay Chhmar. Four of these were looted in 1992 (see missing wall on right).

Banteay Chhmar, also called the Citadel of the Cats, lies hidden in a remote corner of Cambodia, shielded by the Dangrek Mountains to the north. Its isolated location is exactly why archaeologists and conservators are so enthusiastic about the site. In the 800 years since it was built, Banteay Chhmar has slowly collapsed, falling victim to ancient trees, invasive jungle foliage and modern looters.

But archaeologists know that the structural collapse has preserved many artistic elements, much like a time capsule. Banteay Chhmar temple remains the least-damaged repository of art commissioned by the Khmer Empire’s last great king, Jayavarman VII, who converted Cambodia to Buddhism, which remains the national religion today.

GHF conservation of the face towers at Banteay Chhmar.

Conserving Cambodian History at Banteay Chhmar

In 2007, the Global Heritage Fund (GHF) recognized the critical need for conservation, planning and protection at Banteay Chhmar. Working with Cambodian officials, GHF initiated a conservation project at the temple. British architect John Sanday, GHF’s Director for Asia and Pacific Programs, moved to the site to personally direct the work, and to oversee training for professional team of Khmer conservators to restore their nation’s priceless heritage.

GHF’s Banteay Chhmar project is the first temple restoration project led by a Khmer team.

The Cambodian government and conservation groups actively support GHF’s conservation efforts. Governor Oung Oeung of Banteay Meanchey Province and Director General Ok Sophon, Department of Heritage, Ministry of Culture and Fine Arts (MoCFA) recently hosted the second international Banteay Chhmar conference at the site, attracting nearly 200 participants.

In addition to GHF’s work stabilizing and preserving the temple structure, two other groups are working with local residents to promote social programs; Cambodia Community Based Eco-Tourism Network promotes eco-tourism, while Heritage Watch International implements heritage education programs for visitors, guides and local residents.

In addition to the main temple, the vast Banteay Chhmar site includes a large baray (ceremonial reservoir), canals and many smaller temples.

GHF Conference at Musée Guimet Rallies Support for Heritage Conservation

A Royal Cambodian Ballet dancer.

On November 30th, 2010 the Global Heritage Fund organized a special meeting at the Guimet Museum, which preserves one of the most extraordinary collections of Khmer art in the world.

Following a traditional dance blessing by member of the Royal Ballet of Cambodia, a group of distinguished speakers discussed the importance of saving global heritage for future generations. Presenters included Cambodian Ambassador to France, H.E. Mr. Uch Kiman; the U.S. Ambassador to UNESCO David Killion, and Jacques Gies, President of the Musée Guimet, who just had returned from Cambodia.

John Sanday presented his ongoing work restoring Banteay Chhmar with professional team of Khmer conservators. Banteay Chhnar is the first temple conservation project in Cambodia to be led by a Khmer team of professionals training their fellow Khmers. Mr. Sanday also described how local communities are essential to the site’s protection and development to ensure long-term success for the project.

Dr. Peter Sharrock from University of London SOAS presented intriguing research on the unique Khmer art and iconography of Banteay Chhmar that the GHF project is now revealing to the world. (more info below)

Banteay Chhmar is enclosed by a one kilometer carved bas-relief wall depicting the entire history of the Khmer kingdom.

UNESCO Recognition – The Next Key Step for Banteay Chhmar

In 1992, UNESCO has recognized the 400 sq. km. Angkor area as one of the world’s most important archaeological sites.

The vast site of Banteay Chhmar is now among Cambodia’s top-listed sites for nomination to UNESCO’s World Heritage List. This little-know and rarely visited area contains one of the great architectural masterpieces of Southeast Asia, and its main temple is one of the culminating monuments of the Khmer Kingdom’s epic Angkorian Period.

Suffering from 800 years of neglect, the towers, chambers and intricate bas relief carvings of the temple have slowly collapsed to the encroaching jungle, as well as suffering from aggressive looters. Banteay Chhmar is in critical need of a master plan, pro-active conservation and increased protection, which is the exact mission government and non-profit agencies now pursue.

Early Banteay Chhmar temple plan by George Groslier.

Exploring the History and Mystery of Banteay Chhmar

Always remote, Banteay Chhmar has attracted explorers for more than a century. Etienne Aymonier first visited the site around 1883 followed by Lunet de Lajonquière around 1903. According to French archaeologist George Groslier,

“both noted that of all the Khmer monuments that they had explored Banteay Chhmar was the most ruined, the largest, the most chaotic…and the most indecipherable.”

On January 9, 1914, Groslier returned to the site to make a detailed survey, where he wrote:

“It took me ten days of uninterrupted work, from dawn to dusk, to survey Banteay Chhmar. No other temple in Cambodia is so vast or lies in such ruin…nowhere else have I felt such deep emotion studying the stones on site and re-erecting them one by one on paper.”

Groslier continued documenting the site, with the first major article for the public appearing in French in 1937 (click for George Groslier’s Banteay Chhmar article in English).

Professor Sharrock of SOAS now notes that the consecration of Banteay Chhmar dates to 1216 CE. Sharrock, a specialist in the religious transformation under the reign of the last great Khmer King Jayavarman VII, sees this unrestored temple as perhaps the greatest and least-damaged repository of Buddhist iconography from that era. His hope is that it will tell scholars even more about the Khmer than the state temple of the Bayon, which is in the Angkor group.

According Sharrock, images at Banteay Chhmar contain strong evidence for a cult of the supreme tantric Buddhist deity Hevajra, with significant participation by female practitioners, women known as Yoginis. According to Sharrock’s research, Hevajra cults were widespread at the time, reaching their peak in what is now China in 1260 CE with the Chinese emperor Kublai Khan’s consecration to Hevajra. Jayavarman VII’s devotion to Hevajra was therefore not unusual, but it does reveal the extent that this new religion influenced Southeast Asian beliefs.

Meanwhile, the iconography in the central sanctuary of Banteay Chhmar suggests that Vajrasattva and Herukas may have been at the core of this royal tantric cult. A frieze on one of the temple’s characteristic face towers may portraying the whole body of the crowned 4-faced deity sitting in the face-towers themselves.

Architectural reconstruction of Banteay Chhmar by architect Olivier Cunin, funded by the Robert Kiln Charitable Trust (UK) via GHF.

Restoring an Architectural Wonder

GHF has also employed the talents of French architect Dr. Olivier Cunin in creating 3-D archaeological reconstructions of the Banteay Chhmar complex. Cunin collaborated with Japanese photographer Baku Saito in 2005 to issue “The Face Towers of Banteay Chmar”, documenting this extraordinary temple.

The Banteay Chhmar site is now open to visitors. Interested travelers can also support the non-profit Global Heritage Fund, Cambodia Community Based Eco-Tourism Network, and Heritage Watch International with tax deductible contributions.

GHF team doing a temporary reassembly of a vault at Banteay Chhmar.

Banteay Chhmar Information Resources

Global Heritage Fund

Heritage Watch International

Cambodia Community Based Eco-Tourism Network

Banteay Chhmar Heritage Conference Website

Archaeological Institute of America – Banteay Chhmar Site Preservation Grant

Article – Banteay Chhmar: healing the scars of looting

Article – Banteay Chhmar – Ancient Khmer City in Cambodia (1933 article)

Angkor Wat is fast becoming one of the world's most popular tourist destinations. A South Korean grant will help reduce impact on Angkor's irreplaceable heritage.

By Kent Davis

Siem Reap, Cambodia – The Angkor World Heritage Site is fast becoming one of the most popular exotic tourist destinations in the world. And there lies the problem: too many tourists and too much traffic will damage the irreplaceable heritage of the Khmer civilization. The government of South Korea has just offered to help by funding a new road that will protect the temples from their own popularity.

Between the 9th and 15th centuries the Khmer civilization flourished in northern Cambodia, ruling most of Southeast Asia and building hundreds of magnificent stone temples in the lush jungle. Most famous is the awe-inspiring Hindu temple of Angkor Wat, which has remained the largest religious monument in the world since Khmer King Suryavarman II built it in the 12th century.

Angkor Wat enshrines the portraits of more than 1,780 sacred Khmer women.

Angkor Wat’s long corridors feature complex bas-relief carvings depicting stories of the creation of the universe, the royalty of the Khmers, and ancient legends based on Hindu epics. The temple also protects the largest collection of ancient female portraits in the world: more than 1,780 sacred Khmer women appear on the walls of Angkor Wat with fantastic costumes and accessories proving the Khmer’s cultural sophistication. And Angkor Wat is just one of hundreds of exquisite temples in the area.

In 1992, UNESCO declared the Angkor area a World Heritage Site, as well as including it on the World Heritage in Danger List to save it from further destruction. Tourism remains a vital part of Cambodia’s economy with nearly 1.5 million foreign tourists coming to admire the monuments each year, mostly from South Korea, Japan, China, Australia, Europe and the United States. More than half of these tourists visit Angkor but the impact of tourism has been felt.

The vast site is managed by the APSARA Authority, a Cambodian government body that is constantly working to improve tourist traffic and facilities while protecting their nation’s heritage. International organizations like the Global Heritage Fund, World Monument Fund, Friends of Khmer Culture and Heritage Watch International also contribute to the ongoing effort of keeping this important world history accessible.

The new South Korean grant will provide $9.2 million to Cambodia to build a road that will encircle the Angkor temple complex, thereby reducing traffic in the sensitive temple area. APSARA Authority Vice Secretary General Soeung Kong stated that the 21-kilometer road will be closed to trucks to reduce pollution, noise and vibrations that could damage the ancient ruins. Construction will begin in 2010 and is projected to take three years to complete.

This is the second Angkor area road funded by South Korea, according to South Korean Embassy official Son Sungil. The first road extended south from the temple complex.

Devata (sacred female image) defaced at Beng Melea - 2008.

Feature by Erin Linn

Phnom Penh, Cambodia - On February 9, 2010, a number of key government and foundation officials gathered to introduce ICOM’s Red List, defining irreplaceable treasures of Cambodian heritage protected under law. As staff worker with Heritage Watch International, it was my honor to present our organization’s initiatives to counter illicit trafficking of cultural objects.

The creation and publication of the RedList is a true sign of the national and international support for the protection of Cambodia’s outstanding cultural heritage.  Dr. Dougald O’Reilly, the Director of Heritage Watch, was one of many experts who contributed to compiling the RedList.   Heritage Watch is honored to be among the many organizations working to preserve Cambodia’s patrimony.

Heritage Watch was founded in 2003 due to a sharp increase in the destruction of Cambodia’s precious cultural heritage – especially the looting of ancient temples and cemetery sites nationwide.  Heritage Watch’s mission consists of five key elements:

1. To study threats to cultural heritage, including the illicit trade in antiquities, the looting of archaeological sites, and loss of historic architecture;
2. To educate and increase awareness among the public of the profound importance of heritage resources;
3. To increase access to and awareness of national and international law affecting cultural property, while working with the proper authorities to implement, enforce, and improve it;
4. To promote responsible and sustainable tourism practices that further cultural and economic development and encourage the tourism industry to support the arts, culture, heritage and development;
5. To foster communication between relevant governmental and intergovernmental agencies, nongovernmental organizations, academic institutions, and individuals.

Heritage Watch is currently developing and implementing three projects in an effort to achieve the overall mission of the organization and further efforts to counter illicit trafficking of cultural objects.

1. Heritage Development at Banteay Chhmar

In November 2009 Heritage Watch received the Archeological Institute of America’s Site Preservation grant to implement a heritage protection and community development program at Banteay Chhmar.  The project goals are to educate local residents on the benefits of protecting Cambodia’s heritage, to deter looting of archaeological sites, and provide training in tourism practices that protect cultural heritage.

Heritage Watch will be working with a number of dynamic groups there including the Global Heritage Fund, the Community Based Tourism group (or CBT) at Banteay Chhmar, Meanchey University, and local government.

Our methods include implementing English language training, Guide Training, Heritage Protection education for CBT members, and village workshops to educate rural communities about the importance of protecting local heritage.

2. The DHARMA Antiquities Protection Database Project

Stolen devata (sacred female image) at Preah Kahn

In 2008 Heritage Watch began developing the Database of Historical and Archaeological Regulations for the Management of Antiquities (DHARMA).  Cambodia has taken significant and important steps towards protecting its cultural heritage, and a solid framework has been set in place.  There is still much to be done, however, to further develop that framework.

The DHARMA project presents a range of legal reforms to strengthen legal protection of Cambodia’s cultural property. Heritage Watch will work with Cambodian government officials  to compile, publish, analyze and improve the country’s legal framework for heritage management.

DHARMA has won the support of the APSARA Authority; the Ministry of Culture and Fine Arts (MoCFA); the Ministry of Land Management, Urban Planning, and Construction (MoLMUPC), the US Embassy, the American Bar Association, and various legal professionals and academics in the field.  By unifying communications between Cambodian government departments and international organizations and experts, DHARMA will help them to identify and draft the necessary legislation to continue improving Cambodia’s legal protection of its cultural heritage.

3. The Heritage Friendly Tourism Campaign (HFT)

Educating tourists and tour operators with heritage safe practices.

Angkor Wat, the Angkor Heritage Park and other magnificent temples and monuments of the Khmer civilization attract millions of visitors to Cambodia each year, making them one of the country’s most valuable resources.   Although tourism is vital to economic development, it can often have negative impacts on heritage sites, threatening the continuing stream of economic benefits.

The HFT Campaign teaching the importance of protecting Cambodia’s cultural heritage and maintaining sustainable tourism practices at heritage sites. It accomplishes these goals by provides educational resources and training for local communities, tourism operators, and tourists.

In collaboration with the Ministry of Tourism, the APSARA Authority, the Cambodian Community Based Eco-Tourism Network and various other government and non-government  organizations, Heritage Watch is working to implement a Heritage Protection, Guide Training, Development Program for a number of Community Based Tourism  groups associated with or near Heritage sites.

Our project at Banteay Chhmar models many of the objectives of the HFT Campaign: educating local communities about protecting Cambodian heritage, deterring looting of archaeological sites, and providing CBT groups with the training and skills needed to directly benefit from tourism while protecting their cultural heritage.

In 2010, Heritage Watch is working to reinvigorate and strengthen its efforts to protect Cambodia’s cultural heritage.  The Red List is a significant step towards promoting and achieving this objective. This Heritage Watch article on VOA News details exactly how this information is used to stop crime and antiquities trafficking.

Moving forward, Heritage Watch plans to continue collaboration and cooperating with the Cambodian government, international governments, and local and international organizations.  Heritage Watch is proud to contribute to this effort and we sincerely thank all of our partners and associates for their pro-active actions in protecting Cambodia’s rich historic inheritance.

One of the world's most visually stunning heritage museums.

THE RED LIST OF CAMBODIAN ANTIQUITIES AT RISK

Hosted by The National Museum of Cambodia

Welcome address by :
H.E. Chuch Phoeurn
Secretary of State, Ministry of Culture and Fine Arts

Mr. HAB Touch
Director of the National Museum of Cambodia

Presentations by:

H.E. Mr. HIM Chhem
Minister of Culture and Fine Arts of Cambodia

H.E. Ms. Carol A. Rodley
Ambassador of the United States of America to Cambodia

Ms. CHAU SUN Kérya
Director of Angkor Tourist Development Department, ASPARA Authority

Major General KEO Vannthan
Commissariat General of National Police, National Central Bureau of INTERPOL

Erin Lin
Project Officer of Heritage Watch

Mrs. Jennifer Thévenot
International Council of Museums (ICOM) Programme Activities Officer

Female divinity © NMC

Cambodia’s Secretary of State, Ministry of Culture and Fine Arts, H.E. Chuch Phoeurn, a trained archeologist himself, introduced the program with the following remarks:

“It is a great honor and pleasure for me to welcome your Excellencies, Lok Chumteav, Honored Guests and Colleagues, Ladies and Gentlemen to the launch of the Red List of Cambodian Antiquities at Risk and I thank you for your presence here on the joint invitation of the Ministry of Culture and Fine Arts and the International Council of Museums (ICOM).

“Today is an important event for Cambodia to launch the Red List of Cambodian Antiquities at Risk, which is an addition to ICOM’s series of Red Lists focusing on preventing pillage, theft and the illegal export of cultural property. The Cambodian Red List describes and illustrates various categories of objects dating from the prehistoric and Angkor periods to the 19th century, which are targets of looting and illicit trafficking.  It is especially designed to assist cultural institutions, police and customs, and other relevant organizations in identifying and locating objects that may have been looted and illicitly exported from Cambodia.

“On this special occasion, on behalf of the Ministry of Culture and Fine Arts, I wish to express my profound gratitude to ICOM as well as all national and international experts, who assisted in publishing this Red List and to the U.S. Department of State for sponsoring its publication.

“Taking this opportunity, I wish to mention an important earlier project that was prepared in collaboration with the EFEO; ICOM’s 1993 publication, One Hundred Missing Objects: Looting in Angkor, which was updated in 1997. This book has proved an effective tool in providing information on stolen Khmer artifacts in order that, once rediscovered, they may be returned. As a concrete result of the book, and through the great efforts of the Royal Government of Cambodia, UNESCO, ICOM, EFEO and other organizations as well as individuals, ten Khmer artifacts have so far been repatriated to Cambodia. Still more objects are currently under investigation.

Bronze ring. © NMC

“For more than two millennia, especially during the golden age of Angkor from the ninth through the fifteenth century, Cambodia enjoyed a brilliant epoch of creativity and artistic accomplishments that left a legacy of innumerable temples and sculptures, which are now testament to our kingdom’s rich cultural heritage. These cultural resources are fundamental to our people’s integrity and identity. Moreover, they enormously contribute to the country’s economic benefits.

“Unfortunately, during the civil war in the 1970s, followed by decades of unrest, cultural heritage has been at seriously threatened. One of the most serious problems faced by Cambodia is looting and illicit trafficking of ancient artifacts. Trafficking flourished during the last thirty years and the problem remains to this day. Damage caused by war was immense, but illicit trafficking and illegal excavation of sacred deposits containing valuable objects at various temples and sites continue to be a major concern. Sculpture, architectural elements, bronzes, iron artefacts, wooden objects and ceramics are still being illegally exported and looters have exploited the vulnerability of the country’s heritage.

Bronze Vajra. © NMC

“In response to these problems, the Royal Government of Cambodia has made considerable progress in defining cultural heritage priorities, establishing legal measures and implementing strategies to address them.  With respect to the UNESCO conventions and UNIDROIT, and building on the existing law for the protection of cultural heritage, Cambodia has increased the efficacy of national legislation by establishing a sub-decree on the implementation of the protection of cultural heritage. Other concrete actions include entering into various bilateral agreements requesting countries impose strict import restrictions on cultural property and take appropriate action against illegal export.

Palanquin hooks, rings and tubular pole decoration, bronze. © NMC

“There is also the need for concerted international efforts to develop greater collaboration in combating illicit trafficking and cross-border smuggling of movable cultural property and returning it to the country of origin.  In this context, I believe that the Red List will play an important tool in providing information on Cambodian antiquities at risk and ensure appropriate actions to safeguard them.

“In conclusion, I wish to thank all national and international organizations as well as individuals, who contribute to the cause of protecting and preserving Cambodian cultural heritage and who have returned Khmer antiquities to Cambodia. This gesture of support and close cooperation is highly valued and appreciated by the people of Cambodia.

“May the soul of Khmer ancient artifacts bless you all continued happiness, prosperity and success.”

PDF Download: Red List of Cambodian Antiquities at Risk - ICOM

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Download a PDF of the Red List of Cambodian Antiquities at Risk here.

In addition to government organizations many privately funded foundations work to prevent antiquities theft including:

Heritage Watch International

Friends of Khmer Culture

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The angel of Beng Melea on March 5, 2006.

By Kent Davis — © 2008 Touchstone magazine – This article is reprinted with permission.

Her exquisite features expressed her Khmer heritage so perfectly she was chosen to become immortal.

No one had spoken her name for nearly 900 years but certainly thousands had admired her beauty; her almond eyes, the gentle cleft in her chin, her benevolent gaze, her full lips and deep smile conveyed warmth that set her apart from other women. Once adorned with a golden crown, jewelry and accoutrements this flower of the Khmers became divine. She answered her king’s highest calling in the temple of Beng Melea.

The Khmer race created some of history’s most fantastic and innovative art. Their civilization emerged at the crossroads of Southeast Asia, clearly influenced by ancient Indian culture, yet the Khmer vision of religion, kingship, sculpture and architecture set them apart from any other ethnic group.

Khmer temples, their holiest of places, were actual models of heaven on Earth, ensuring balance, prosperity and fertility for their land. In the first half of the 12th century, King Suryavarman II built Cambodia’s most famous monument, Angkor Wat, still featured as the central image of the country’s flag.

To the southeast another magnificent structure rose from the jungle, Beng Melea temple, incorporating many of Angkor Wat’s features on a smaller scale. Experts date it to the same period, yet its builder, architect and precise purpose remain unknown.

Like Angkor Wat, Beng Melea’s designers and sponsors prominently included female deities, now referred to as devata (when standing) or apsara (when dancing). Balancing masculine and feminine forces in the universe was a key component of Khmer religion. Ancient accounts confirm that women held important positions in Khmer society so it isn’t surprising to see women represented in temples as well.

What is surprising is the unique style of these portrayals at the peak of the Khmer culture in the 12th-13th centuries. Rather than generic images of impersonal goddesses, many devatas appear to be portrait carvings of actual women in divine context. These stone images show facial features, poses and personalities that imply individual women were the source of their inspiration.

The angel of Beng Melea was one such woman.

I found her on a sweltering hot day in March 2006 while working on my quantitative analysis of Angkor Wat’s devata. When I heard about Beng Melea’s similar style I took a daytrip there to investigate. Despite the collapse of most of its structures, Beng Melea is majestic in its jungle setting and well worth exploring. Sadly, most of its devatas were weathered beyond recognition, but when I climbed the pile of stones previously forming the northwest corner tower I had a surprising encounter.

Sophaphan Davis approaches the hidden alcove at Beng Melea temple that protected one devata for nearly 1,000 years.

She was hidden by vines beneath a stone overhang. Decades or even centuries ago, the tower’s collapse formed a protective alcove around her. While all her sisters suffered erosion from exposure to the elements she alone remained preserved, still fulfilling the divine duties she was charged with so long ago.

My inexpensive camera didn’t focus well in her compact hiding place so I already planned to return to see her again. Back in Siem Reap I saw my friend Jaro Poncar, a professor from the University of Cologne who has been photographing Khmer structures for more than ten years. Jaro was surprised that he himself had never seen this devata before, making her discovery even more special to me.

It took me nearly a year to mount my next research trip. In February 2007 I returned to Cambodia with my wife Sophaphan and a new camera. After three days of shooting at Angkor Wat we headed to Beng Melea and I anticipated introducing my wife to my hidden friend.

We arrived at the northwest tower and I sent Sophaphan up to look first, awaiting her shout of delight. Instead, she said, “What am I supposed to see?”

“The devata! The only one here that’s well preserved,” I said. “Look, down in the alcove!”

“She’s not there,” came her reply.

I clambered up the rocks to find a faceless section of white rock. Clearly, someone had recently attempted to steal her head but the stone’s stress cracks (visible in my earlier photo) caused her to break unevenly.

Beng Melea Devata - 2006-2007

She, who had survived the collapse of her temple, the weather and the wars of nearly a thousand years, had been destroyed in a moment by a thief’s chisel. For a few dollars, the Khmer race lost a piece of its soul. Cambodia lost an irreplaceable part of its heritage. And Beng Melea became a bit less attractive, and less financially viable, to the Cambodian economy as a tourist destination.

I don’t write these words to fault anyone. The company administrating Beng Melea built the road that enables visitors to easily access this remote site. Apsara Authority is charged with protecting a vast area and countless treasures on a limited budget. And whoever destroyed this angel did so out of ignorance and possibly out of economic necessity.

The only solution is education. With the help of Heritage Watch and other organizations Cambodian leaders can teach Khmer people that their heritage is their most priceless possession. With care and preservation the Khmer legacy will support this land and its people far into the future.

But now this angel will not be there to see it. Her time has passed.

Siem Reap, Cambodia – Balanced precariously atop a metal scaffold 20 stories above the Cambodian jungle, publisher Kent Davis unveiled Angkor the Magnificent (ISBN: 978-1-934431-00-9), an expanded edition of Helen Churchill Candee’s 1924 Asian travel classic featuring the first published biography of the 20th century adventuress.

Titanic Unveiling at Angkor Wat

“It’s astounding to think of ancient Khmer stone masons experiencing this view 1,000 years ago. This is the type of travel adventure Helen Churchill Candee lived for…her spirit is certainly here today!” said Davis at the top of the temple’s central tower on a temporary metal framework erected for restoration of the complex pinecone-shaped structure.

Davis held the ceremony at Angkor Wat before donating copies of the book to Cambodia’s key libraries including the Biblioteque Nationale, the Center for Khmer Studies, the Khmer Arts Academy and L’Ecole D’Extreme Orient.

“Angkor Wat is one of the most magical places on earth. Candee’s travelogue vividly portrays an Angkor of yesteryear for those looking for insights into these truly magnificent Cambodian ruins” comments Yale archeology professor Dr. Dougald O’Reilly who founded Heritage Watch to preserve Cambodia’s heritage.

This historic release marks the first time in 85 years that readers can enjoy Candee’s evocative descriptions of Asian adventure travel in the land of the lost Khmer civilization. Today, Helen Candee is still the perfect guide to bring the temples to life…for visitors experiencing these wonders in person or from their reading chairs. Angkor the Magnificent (ISBN: 978-1-934431-00-9) is available on Amazon.com in the US and Europe.

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> DatAsia press publishes books focusing on Cambodia and Southeast Asian history. As a researcher with Devata.org, Kent Davis works to document the importance of women in Asian history and to decode the meaning of the 1,780 apsara (female goddess) portrait carvings found Angkor Wat.

> Dr. Dougald O’Reilly is an author, archaeologist and Yale University professor specializing in prehistoric Southeast Asia. He is committed to preserving Cambodia’s cultural heritage and founded Heritage Watch (www.heritagewatch.org), a non-profit organization working to preserve cultural icons and stop antiquity theft in Cambodia.